Yes, Atwater Villagers Would Rather Not Call Ahead

TIME TO REVISIT Canele, Glendale Boulevard's finest local eatery, in this Metromix profile of Lot 1 chef Josef Centeno: We meet at Canele, a restaurant Centeno, 34, lists first among his favorites on the east side of town. It's a sliver of a space with exposed brick and ceilings high enough to prevent the onset of claustrophobia. The small dining room dictates a "no reservations" policy, a first-come, first-served axiom that favors the locals of Atwater Village - yet the Mediterranean-inflected cuisine draws foodists from all over the city. A neighborhood joint with excellent food everyone wants to try? We see the appeal.